Anatomy of a trend by Christine Boland: crochet, knotting & macrame
In “Anatomy of a Trend,” trend analyst Christine Boland analyzes a specific trend that is worth watching.
For SS22 there is a major role for arts and crafts (wearable) – think crochet, knotting, braiding, macrame, weaving and braiding. But not only in your typical 70s bohemian style. These openwork artisan techniques are placed in a new context by combining them with modern materials, innovative technology and digital influences (colors). For example, at Fendi, they used rattan – a material traditionally used for furniture – as the textile design for their white shoes and knitwear, turning something seemingly incompatible into modern wearable designs. Hence the term of the design language “recontextualized traditional craftsmanship”.
Thanks to the pandemic, we have seen an increase in everything handmade, not only in fashion but also in interior design. This has sparked a renewed interest in the traditional techniques used and evolved over the centuries by indigenous communities who live close to nature. Unsurprisingly, their intricate craftsmanship – like knotting, braiding, weaving and braiding – is a major inspiration for the SS22 fashion collections. By mixing these artisan techniques and artisan creations with high-tech materials, the resulting designs present a very modern interpretation of centuries-old textures.
In this immaterial and totally elusive digital (phygital) world, there is a strong need for tangible and seemingly hand-made things. Handmade and irregular shapes are considered to have a “soul” and therefore provide that warm and comfortable touch that is essential to a design. The larger the texture, the more tactile the end product. Popular for accessories, such as bags and hats, as well as for the total look. Crochet and other openwork techniques are the perfect solution for adding such an interesting sensory texture.
There are important influencers in architecture and interior design, for example product and interior designer Marcel Wanders, architect Patrick Keane and artist designer Aurelie Hoegy. Not to mention the Loewe X Wallpaper basketry exhibition in Milan during the Salone del Mobile 2019, where the Spanish luxury brand asked eleven master weavers to create limited edition objects of art in Loewe leather. Valentino, Fendi, Kenneth Ize, and Ella Emhoff (Kamala Harris’ stepdaughter) knit collaboration with Batsheva Hay can be seen as important pack leaders. But arguably perhaps an even bigger role has to be attributed to last year’s hype seen on Pinterest, Instagram and even Tik Tok.