Good-looking whorehouse, our correspondent Sarah Mark in New York has tested for you “The Cuckoo”, a restaurant you will love.
Every week, a new restaurant opens. The dynamic is often the same. The articles that rave about what we are trying to pass for a revolutionary concept come out one after another, the “review” more or less dithyrambic follow and look alike, the “post” of celebrities on social networks multiply, and if you want to reserve a table as soon as possible, you will hear yourself answer: “Oh you want a table for two? Of course I have an availability at 17:30 Monday in a month, how are you? “, With a bonus little grin almost audible that seems to say rather” My poor girl do not waste your time you will have no table “. So I learned to let the cruel Darwinism of Manhattan,
And then from time to time there is a place that stands out. This is very rare in practice. So that my curiosity is piqued it is necessary that the following conditions are met: not too noisy, impeccable service, pleasant decor, spaced tables without giving the impression “pinch-butt” of some starred priceless, a nice clientele, in a nice neighborhood and easy access, good dishes that do not try to drown the flavor under pounds of sauce, and it will be necessary that I be offered several options satisfactory for my wacky cooking restrictions. The five-legged sheep in short, but I refuse to compromise on all these criteria. Well for having dined several times, I think I can tell you this week that I have a nugget, a restaurant that has passed all my filters:
The kitchen is in the hands of chef Daniel Rose. The “foodies” that you are familiar with may already be since he made his classes at Paul Bocuse in Lyon and opened the Spring restaurant not far from the Louvre in Paris 10 years ago. For his return to Manhattan, he partners with Stephen Starr, a star of the restaurant industry in the United States who no longer counts the openings of successful restaurants and awards. With a pair like this one at the controls, it was already pretty good. I confirm it, it is a faultless. Elegant white tablecloth, a candle on the table, the right light, the lovely clientele, the service compile without the usual irritating honeyed side of Manhattan restaurants,